Selvedge Denim vs. "Regular" Denim: What’s the Real Difference?

Denim lovers throw around the term selvedge a lot—but what does it actually mean, and how is it different from the regular denim you’ll find on most shelves? Whether you’re a casual shopper or a denim enthusiast, understanding the difference helps you appreciate why some jeans cost $40 and others cost $240.

What Is Selvedge Denim?

Selvedge denim (sometimes spelled “self-edge”) refers to denim woven on old-style shuttle looms. These looms produce a tightly woven, clean edge that doesn’t unravel—which is the “self-edge.” You can see this edge when you cuff the jeans: usually a white strip with a colored thread (often red). Until the 1950s/60s, selvedge denim was simply how denim was made. Today, selvedge denim is often associated with Japanese mills, which revived and perfected these traditional looms beginning in the late 1980s.

Key Features of Selvedge Denim

• Clean, finished edges due to shuttle loom weaving

• Heavier, denser fabric that feels more structured

• Typically made in smaller batches for higher quality

• Often raw (unwashed), meaning it will fade uniquely over time 

• Most often indigo-dyed

• More durable and long-lasting

What Is “Regular” Denim?

Most denim today is made on modern projectile looms, which weave fabric faster and wider. The edges are not finished the same way, so the fabric gets cut and then overlocked (stitched) to prevent fraying. Standard denim offers accessibility, variety, and comfort right off the rack.

Key Features of Standard Denim

• Mass-produced and cost-effective

• More consistent and softer because it can be pre-washed or treated

• Comes in all sorts of washes, stretch levels, and finishes

• Usually lighter and more flexible

Final Thoughts

Selvedge denim isn’t necessarily better than other denims—it’s just different. It represents a traditional, handcrafted approach to making denim, offering durability, unique aging, and a connection to old-world textile techniques. Whether you choose selvedge or not comes down to your priorities as a wearer: heritage and durability, or softness and convenience. 

While standard denim is typically more affordable than selvedge denim, we offer selvedge denim at an affordable price at Fishman's Fabrics. By purchaing small cuts of selvedge denim that have often been discontinued, we are able to pass on the savings onto you. Check out our full selection of denim here!